Blog
30 May 2009
I started walking around to have different perspectives and it is when I sat in a corner that a Tibetan boy came to join me. He was studying in China, hoping to return one day and give back to his people what they were missing. He was filled with ambition and kindness. He was also filled with secrecy because when I started asking questions he had to keep certain topics off the table because he couldn’t discuss them. He said that especially because he’s speaking to a white person who’s probably living in China, it might seem like he’s telling me things about and against China because he’s a Tibetan. So we exchanged emails and parted. I had so many questions, and he probably knew I did. I realized the Chinese government had been able to install a fear in the Tibetans, but not a blind one as they would probably follow through with the consequences. For example, we couldn’t discuss the situation of the Tibetans right now, where the construction of new block houses are built so Tibetans can settle in these Chinese communities. In this undertaking, they have to get rid of their nomadic lifestyle and loose what they know to exchange for a living in a new language that rips and shreds their roots. The project will give them money, but only for a few years, and after that, they must figure it out on their own. Or he also couldn’t talk of how they are forced to learn Chinese in Tibetan schools or how they can no longer learn Tibetan. When looking at this future lifestyle, it suggests that they are pushed to be a stranger in their own home. But thankfully, they have been able up to now to preserve a strong tradition, the tradition of Buddhist belief and hopefully this will keep them from losing much of their culture.
Some stores and restaurants are Chinese looking in a few cities like Lhasa and Shigatse, and some merchants had the attitude of a Chinese merchant. However, I did see one major difference in the way most Tibetans greeted us, for example; they are very welcoming towards Caucasians, like the Chinese but they don’t get overexcited when they see us passing in the street, even if it shows that they aren’t used to seeing foreigners. They are more relaxed; they take a glance and keep on their route. Whereas in China, I have found that I was often stared at and sometimes taken for a walking museum piece. Not that it bothered me as it becomes quite amusing after a while, or rather, you almost stop noticing it, but no one ever asked to take a picture of me in Tibet. That is perhaps because there is less idolization of the Western culture there, they probably don’t aspire to be or look like us it as it doesn’t seem to be in their interest. Perhaps it is because there is less of a direct contact with the West, I don’t know, but what I did notice is that even if they are extremely polite to us, it doesn’t seem that they are doing it by disillusionment but rather out of respect.
A similarity with the Chinese can be seen during one evening when we went to a bar to watch a bit of night life in Lhasa, and a waitress/bartender was standing near our table to fill our glasses even if they weren’t empty. The strange this was that we were the only ones with a waitress at our table. There were two possible explanations for this; either it is the fact that we were the only Caucasian people there and so we were treated as special guests, or she wanted us to buy more beer, because we are Caucasian and thus, treated as special guests. My belief leans towards option B, because when it comes down to buying, I have the impression that the seller approaches his customer in a similar way in Tibet as in China. Caucasians need to bargain harder to show that they are only willing to pay what some one from that region would pay because we are thought to have lots of money. At first sight, a merchant from either country seems to view us as an opportunity to make money and they aren’t totally wrong in this bias, as many short-term travellers live up to this expectation. However, after having lived in China for almost a year, I learned the game and art of bargaining and that is why I suppose the bartender is probably another tester who wants to sell. The sell strategy is similar because I suppose that many Tibetans are in competition with the Chinese, so they must play the game, otherwise they won’t get the same benefits because the Chinese people are very accustomed to this marketing and business trade.
We had also only bought two beers, while all the other tables had a stack of beers on their table, maybe 10 for 2 people. That wan an amusing situation, because we didn’t want to drink more, but we also saw how everyone else had ordered all their beer for the entire evening. It must’ve been a symbol to show their capacity to drink or to show how they can pay for all that stock. This idea of presentation is often present in Chinese restaurants where people order much more than what they need because they think it would look bad to leave nothing on a table. They show and are proud to present what they own. And while they were presenting their shows, we turned to look at the show happening on stage, which was a concert of choreographed Tibetan and hip hop dance, a combination that is difficult to describe. There was also a mix of people singing Tibetan Pop songs. We got to see how everyone enjoys themselves, and how they might spend their Friday night. And Tibetan Pop music is very good! I actually bought two dvd albums where the music clips speak of Tibetan culture and Tibet.
On my way back on the train from Lhasa to Beijing, I was in a cabin with three Tibetan guys. They spoke mandarin so I was able to communicate a little bit with them. I was reading a book on Chinese history and asked them about what they knew on Mao Zedong, but one whispered that he could not answer otherwise he would have his hands cut off, or he would get handcuffed, I’m not sure I understood what he meant. The conversation had to end there. Some Chinese friends of mine don’t know about the Tianan’men square event, so I wonder if Tibetans know more about Chinese and Tibetan history than China does. The boy in the monastery also suggested that, but to what degree is still a mystery to me.
This group of four guys were so friendly, they offered me food, they gave me spices to take home and we even went to the bar of the train to drink beer together. They were really a friendly and amusing bunch, as we watched Kung-Fu movies after on our beds. We sat closely altogether, as though I was one of them. Sure enough, Chinese guys wouldn’t have acted that way with me, as far as who I’ve met; the Chinese guys are shyer towards girls, and that is not only toward Caucasian girls. Many Chinese girl friends of mine told me about how long and difficult it is for a relationship to start to build with Chinese men, so perhaps the Tibetan’s laid back charisma makes it easier for them to be approaching and social. These guys were comfortable with me after a very brief period, and I didn’t feel my skin or my gender made a difference, whereas with many Chinese people that I even see regularly, I can still sometimes feel like I am not the same, for all the reasons that this implies..
23 May 2009
Many aspects of the Tibetan culture attract me and I have had the opportunity to let this wonderful place engulf me completely when I was there last year in late February 2008. I had been living in China for just about 7 months, where I had decided to travel for one month to different places in and around China. Already when you enter Tibet, the geographic landscape and the people are very different from the mainland; many women wore colourful traditional dresses and striped apron like cloths around their waist with beaded jewellery while the men wore large felt hats and large coats, where only one arm was tuck in. The other sleeve was turned in the jacket and the other arm was left hanging. Also, most people had a prayer wheel attached to their clothing. On the other hand, many teenagers wore Chinese like fashion. To some effect, modernity and the effect of the Chinese could be seen in certain elements, nevertheless, some other factors would always pop up and remind you of where you were.
Also the spices, flavours and smells are different. Their butter tea is very salty, and in China there rarely is salty food. Also, their spices are more from India and Nepal than China. I had tasted a Masala Indian Tea one evening and had never drunk such a sweet, smooth and soothing tea before that. I started asking for it every time we went to eat! Their yak momos were delicious and the spicy sauce that was served for the dip was somewhat of a different chilli, of a different type of flavour altogether. Thank goodness there was no Starbucks or KFC! I hadn’t seen a capital in that year without one, so it was quite a relief to know that they hadn’t succumbed to this crap food. On another note, no matter how the material and technological functions are developing and becoming more available to the Tibetans, I could notice a grand capacity to preserve the spiritual aspect of their tradition.
When I arrived at the Drepung monastery, which is not far from Lhasa, a very large and excited crowd was awaiting something or someone which was unknown to me. This crowd was probably mostly made up of the many nomads that had come to the city of Lhasa during this time for the Lantern Festival. During this festival, the people visit monasteries, give offerings and pray. A woman prayed in front of the facade of the Jokhang monastery and had been there in the morning when I left my room, and was there when I returned at night. She slid her hands in front of her and the rest of her body followed as she slid to the ground. Then, once completely on the ground, she would stand up and start again. Some devotees had small wooden panels under their hands to avoid getting hurt. One evening (maybe a peak in the festival), the streets were completely filled by devotees praying. They were sliding one next to each other, bodies close to one another and as we walked amongst these devotees, something intangible and indescribable was suspended in the air.
We also had the wonderful opportunity to experience an important ceremony at the Drepung monastery. What had been awaited in fact was a Panchen Lama called A-Ba and the moment this elderly looking man arrived, the crowd rejoiced with such happiness that they almost jumped on him. It was quite stunning to see how the people wanted to touch him, see him.
Once inside, we (my boyfriend and I) sat and started drinking butter tea that was handed over by a monk to every one. The crowd would have their chance to see the Panchen Lama, but first they would have to wait a very long stretched line up. We could see that the line up inside continued much further as each person could take their turn to greet the Panchen Lama and be blessed by him. Then these people were handed a long incense stick and the scent followed them as they slowly walked between the rows of sitting monks. Smoke was rising to the sun as the light pierced through the windows on the colourful prayers flags and rows of burgundy robes. As these sticks were burning, most devotees in this line would give offerings to the monks. I saw some hold a pile of one yuan bills and then hand one bill to each monk. I wondered; how much time was needed for them to save this money? What effort and work was put into that pile? How far was The Destination from home to here? And what value did it have to their eyes and others around them compared to mine because most people in Tibet are mostly poor?
I can’t relate their devotion to anything of a religious nature in my North American upbringing. On one had, their act wasn’t necessarily altruistic as they would get something back in the form of karma, but on the other hand, their act of presence or generosity demonstrated in and of itself a degree of faith and dedication that is rarely seen and quite difficult to understand. In China, I had seen many people visit monasteries and pray as well, but this was something else.
During this time, white scarves were given by monks to everyone as a form of welcoming. Also, a monk was in the middle on an altar reciting texts, which were perhaps mantras, and all the other hundreds of monks were reciting along with him. Their voices were low and deep and the sound filled the monastery with vibrancy which shook every vertebrate to the bottom of my spine.
Lines of people separated in different directions as some threw their scarves at a very large Buddha statue, others visited rooms, and others were going up a flight of stairs to another room where they could probably give their blessing on their knees to another Buddha. I say probably because there is one statue like that in most monasteries and it always appears to be one of the most important pieces as it is often covered completely with scarves and offerings of money and food. They waited patiently their turn.
It is at this moment that I imagined a knock of the Chinese government trying to enter and perhaps alter it all. Try to alter the principles that brought the people there from miles away, alter the tradition of belief; alter the altar, but the door stayed closed and the faith didn’t flinch.
Sarah
May 8, 2009 'The Forbidden Team'
I went to see that film at 'Maison de la culture du Plateau-Mont-Royal' A national team without a nation, the additional title said. A film that portraits the travel of a Tibetan football team living in exile at Dharamshala in northwestern India to play in Copenhagen with a team from Greenland. A poignant film that shows the trials and the triumph of the Tibetans living in exile. The team though looses in the match, the captain says this, while tears run down his weathered cheeks, 'We did it'. Indeed it was a milestone for them, far more then one can imagine.
Afterwards in conversation with Dukar, mediated by Dawn, I learned some facts about Tibetan sports. But what hit home, comic as it may sound, as Dukar pointed that a Tibetan keeps fit by prostrating many times (as many as 100) a day. Very similar to the 'Sun salutation', as Dukar demonstrated the prostration, I couldn't agree more as I grinned alongside the others.
Dukar had a very important thing to say, ' Tibetan people don't hate Chinese people' we are all human beings in the end. What we are opposed to, is the way the Chinese communist regime is treating the Tibetans in their own homeland. Everyday we hope that it will change, that we shall be free in its true sense and many including me, can visit my home in Tibet someday.
I had a few questions of my own, but Janet sadly announced it was time to wrap the evening, maybe next time.
Deepali
May 2, 2009, 'The Legend of the Necklace' at restaurant OM
Change is good, if it is for the better. So an Indian dance that was initially planned for the event was replaced by an Indo-Tibetan dance, come May 2. The dance was based on the stories of the people I'd the privilege of interviewing.
Gyamtso was all ready to play his part and Kunpel agreed to do his ( a couple of magic booster packs did the trick). The laughter, sighs, tears and the smiles direct from the hearts of the audience was our reward and inspiration.
Deepali
1 May 2009, Opening ceremony, Festival Acess Asie
Tenzing and I arrived around 6 p.m. to a full house (and more pouring in), at the opening night of the Acess Asie festival at 'Maison de la culture du Plateau-Mont-Royal'. The effervescence of the phenomenon which is Janet Lumb, who is also the festival director, came swirling and gathered us in her warm embrace. You stagger for a moment but drown in that openness and warmth that can only come from someone like Janet. Atta girl, way to go!
The event, combined with the vernissage of Kiran Ambwani photographs of Tibetan community in India was a double bonus. After we got used to the swarming and made our way into the interior, we met Kiran and her beaming mother, who had come all the way from India.
We managed to make our way to the photographs, which is stunning in its colors and details. It sure captures the moment in a spellbinding and poetic manner, what is everyday and mundane in a Tibetan's life.
After the welcome note, Kelsang Dolma took the centre stage and bowled us over with 3 Tibetan songs, in her clear and powerful voice. So much emotion sparkled through. Despite not knowing the language, I was transported to a land where laughter and joy rang through the plateau by its natives now replaced with tears and sorrow and a great sense of loss. Kelsang songs made me ache for Tibet.
Deepali